Following the hundreds of 'weddings' the previous evening, when transgenders tie the knot with god Aravan in the Koothandavar Temple in Koovagam village, the deity is taken in procession through the village atop a two-storey high wooden car, hand-drawn by dozens of devotees.
Transgenders gather individually and in groups, all along the route, to worship their god.
Sangithaamma, 28, selects a spot in the middle of a street where the procession will pass, sprinkling water to keep down the dust, then drawing a 'kolam' (mandala) with rice powder. An unusually large quantity of camphor, more than 3 kg, is placed in the center of the mandala, together with sandalwood powder, vermilion and 'vibhuti' (sacred ash).
Gradually a group of a dozen transgender sisters gather around the sanctified space. They exchange news, engage in friendly banter, then sing and dance in a circle, clapping their hands to the beat. Crowds of local villagers and visitors to the annual Koovagam Festival look on, curious and amused, with the occasional enthusiast joining boldly in the proceedings.
At the approach of Lord Aravan upon his car, the camphor is lit. Instantly, bodies scatter, escaping the leaping flames and billowing black smoke, if not the intense heat from the camphor which his highly flammable and burns with surprising energy. Scarcely a moment later, everybody falls upon the still burning camphor to gather pieces to take back home, using sticks and cloth to separate smaller chunks and douse the flames. This camphor rescued from the fires is regarded as 'prasad,' a consecrated, tangible vehicle of divine blessings.
Once the excitement is over, and Lord Aravan continues on his way, it's time for the 'aravanis' (transgenders) to head to a shaded grove, there to cut their wedding pendants ('tallis'), smash their bangles, beat their chests and wail in mourning for their god who was sacrificed to ensure victory in an epic war.
But that's another story!
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